Letters and Notes from My Peace Corps Experience in
Biafra
(October 8, 1966 through July 20, 1967)
Jonathan B. Seale, Nigeria XXIV (1966-1967)
In the spring of 1966 I was accepted into the Peace
Corps to serve two years in Nigeria.
Training to be part of community and rural development teams took place
over the summer at the University of California, San Diego, in La Jolla. After training and a brief visit home, the
85 newly minted Peace Corps Volunteers of Nigeria XXIV were flown to Lagos,
Nigeria, on October 6th for the start of in-country orientation. From Lagos, PCVs moved out to the four
regions of the host country.
Those of us stationed in the Eastern Region flew to
Enugu for two weeks of additional training and final details of our posting
which in my case was in Port Harcourt.
Although there were Volunteers from other groups in Port Harcourt, I was
the first one assigned to the newly formed Works Unit of the Division of
Community Development, Ministry of Rural Development. The government provided me housing close to my office in Port
Harcourt.
For the next nine months I developed projects with a
team of Host Country Nationals trained as community development specialists
from my Division. By the end of May,
1967, my construction crew completed a 35’ bridge/ culvert on the Ibubu/Onne
Road that allowed farmers easier access during the rainy season to markets in
Port Harcourt. Planning was also
underway for a fish pond project in
Ogu, Yenegoa, as well as the Yaako Communal Farm Access road in Bori, Ogoni,
when we were evacuated. On July 20,
1967, Eastern Region PCVs and other expatriates were taken by freighter from
Port Harcourt to Accra, Ghana.
Following are direct quotes of observations I made in
my small corner of Biafra, taken chiefly from letters sent home to my parents,
George and Nancy Seale and brothers Nat and Tim and sister Becky all of
Worcester, MA. There were a total of
ten letters from Nigeria in which Biafra was discussed and an additional letter
from Accra, Ghana, describing the evacuation from Port Harcourt. In addition, there are descriptions and
excerpts from letters to several government officials, an appointment calendar,
a job log and a short journal I started on arriving in Lagos.
These letters describe early times for the Republic of
Biafra and I am struck by the sense of normalcy in my life and those with whom
I lived and worked over this period. On
many levels this was a tribute to the pride and confidence the Ibo people had
in their new country and their cause.
When the massacres and mutilations of Ibos in the
Northern Regions began I recall a visceral hatred directed toward the
perpetrators by my co-workers. I was
shown a pamphlet that was circulated with gruesome photos of the victims.
The only
liberty I have taken with the material is to choose what is germane to
Biafra. Personal matters pertaining to
my friends and family have been excluded.
I make no apologies for the naivety of some comments
nor any awkwardness of expression. I
was a 23 year old writing home to his family.
(Italics are employed to denote source or explain
contexts and some references.)
(Entry in appointment calendar) January 31, 1967. To Yaako Community Farm Access Road project,
Bori, Ogoni.
(Letter) January 11, 1967. To Secretary,
Eleme County Council, Ogoni Division, Port Harcourt Province, (on the
proposed bridge/culvert for the Ibubu/Onne Road).
(Letter) February 24, 1967. To Chief
Victor Abasi, Community Officer, Ogu, Yenegoa, (describing the next steps
for the Ogu National Fish Pond project and a planned visit in March 1967).
(Letter to home) Port Harcourt. March 1, 1967. “Due to the
atrocities committed against thousands of Ibos over the past year, Lt. Col.
Ojukwu (military leader of Biafra) recommended that there was to be no
public celebration. Christmas and the
holiday season were to be spent in quiet meditation and deep reflection…” (summary
of the past holiday season)
(Letter to
home) Port Harcourt. March 26, 1967.
“Politically, things are just about primed to explode
over here, as a matter of fact, the date for the conflagration is set for March
31. Apparently, the conciliatory
conference in Ghana in January was only a token move by Gowon (military
leader of Nigeria) and his allies.
This meeting held in Aburi was a hashing out of all the problems both
the East, and the remainder of the country feel are obstacles to a
re-unification of Nigeria. To
everyone’s detriment, the Aburi agreements were not implemented as stated,
resulting in the East decision to implement them unilaterally. The accompanying rattling of sabers by Lt.
Col. Ojukwu, has prompted Gowon to declare that force will be used as a last
measure to maintain Nigeria as a national entity. Counter posed under this headline was Ojukwu’s declaration to
match force with force, hinting possible secession if force, either as a
blockade or outright attack, are employed.
Well, Gowon just purchased 2 jets and has naval
supremacy with Nigerian Commander Wey’s small, but modern fleet. Ojukwu has excited the people to the point
where everyone is wearing “Easterners Get Ready” badges and practicing thrice
weekly in the special home forces which number in the tens of thousands of men
and women. Trenches are being dug, pill
boxes erected, arms purchased and food stockpiled.
In everyday life, the build-up is noticeable in a
large decline of shipping, and a tightening up of road blocks. Expatriates have been departing slowly, and
even PC people have been reminded of standard evacuation procedures. It’s sort of common small talk to discuss
the crisis, but many old timers feel it will blow over, as apparently many of them
do.
As far as I’m concerned it’s no sweat and certainly no
need for consternation on the part of any of you.”
(Entry in appointment calendar) May 8, 1967. To Ogoni (to survey potential project).
(Entry in appointment calendar) May 13, 1967. To Calabar (to survey
potential project)t.
(Letter)
June 6, 1967. To the Minister of Rural
Development (describing the
results of three visits on January 27th, March 2nd and
April 29th to Ogu and the progress of the Ogu National Fish Pond
project).
(Letter to home) Lagos, Nigeria.
June 7, 1967.
“It’s not as bad as it seems in the newspapers. An English woman who is a good friend is
being evacuated probably in the next 2 or 3 days so she volunteered to carry
out any letters I might want sent. I’m
only sending this one, however, in hopes that you will answer any questions
concerning my well-being that others back home might have. Things are going quite NORMALLY, but I’m
somewhat rattled at seeing so many evacuees leave by plane every day.
On the first day of the Republic of Biafra (5/31/67)
we completed our bridge/culvert.
Despite little transport, a dwindling crew and less equipment, the crew
and I constructed an 80 ton bridge/culvert.
Really. I hope I can get my slides out of here so I can show you—the damn
thing’s beautiful.
Understandably, the news was predominantly of a
political nature, somewhat astonishing because not much has been happening
here.
Ojukwu has moved the East towards secession for four
months. This was corroborated by the
heightened vociferousness and bellicose statements made against Gown during
series of mass rallies, conducted at a time when Gowon was lifting the blockade
in a reconciliatory gesture. The
consultative assembly of the East was called, and rubber-stamped Ojukwu’s plan
for a new state. Flag, currency,
stamps, official uniforms, and a raft of edicts were then immediately brought
forth, pointing to the months of preparation that culminated in secession.
Presently, 200 expatriate women and children have been
evacuated, with more leaving in the next few days. Despite persistent boasts of protection and continued normalcy by
Ojukwu they are still moving out.
Regardless of statements to the contrary, the people leaving now are
doing so in anticipation of hardship from skyrocketing prices, due to an
effective blockage and the possible anarchy this may create. Although prices have risen slightly, there
is no threat to safety or personal possessions, no threat or hardship of any
magnitude at all. If Gowon attacks,
things might become tense. To ease the
“Nervous Nellies”, however, Ojukwu has sent Land Rovers cruising through the streets
mounted with 50 caliber machine guns.
These, and the planes which occasionally buzz over serve to remind
everyone of the presence and preparedness of the Biafran Army.
If we are evacuated, it will first be to Lagos, and
then to Malta (pure rumor) in the Mediterranean for reassignment to new
posts. Tell our friends I’m fine. (Last letter I received was yours from
Jordan, Mom.) Hope God continues to
watch over you, as I have become aware that he is doing for me. Bless you all, Dad, Mom, Than, Tim, Becky.”
(Entry in appointment calendar) June 13, 1967. To Yenegoa (to survey
project).
(Entry in appointment calendar) June 30, 1967. Move D4 (Caterpillar bulldozer) to
farm road.
(Letter to home) Port Harcourt. June 30, 1967.
“Oh yes, before I forget, it is also a big day today
because Lt. Col. Ojwkwu has made a speech announcing that the ZERO HOUR for the
Republic of Biafra has arrived. My
English Volunteer flat mate and myself had just returned from a two hour tour
of Shell Oil installation to see if the rumors of Army take over were true
(which of course they weren’t) when a very solemn and serious voice over our
neighbor’s radio arrested our progress up the stairs to our flat. In a voice which I will remember as long as
you recall Roosevelt in the early 1940’s, and my roommate’s parents remember
Churchill in 1939, Ojukwu declared that the time of confrontation had
come. To show other nations Biafran
stability and territorial sovereignty, to prove once and for all the invalidity
of Gowon’s stated threat of destroying the Republic of Biafra, and to avenge
for the slaughter of kith and kin in the North, Biafra is going to war, if war
is brought to its land. Not a war of
defense, but a war on all fronts: On
the border, on the high seas, in the air over Lagos, and Kaduna, and Ibadan and
Enugu. With God as the witness to the
justification for their struggle.
…my arrival and duration here in Eastern Nigeria
(Biafra) turned out to be synchronized with the build-up and preparation for
secession which culminated with the events on May 30th when a new state was declared which must now
undergo a trial by firepower.
…I am on a first name basis with the Commanding
Officer of Port Harcourt’s barracks, but soon the effect of my fraternizing
with the officers is going to wear off.
Thursday, 6/22) I went way in the bush, only to find myself plunked
right in the midst of a massive troop movement involving 500-600 men...
My one construction venture has turned out to be a
success. When the opening ceremony
comes off next month, Peace Corps is going to generate some publicity around the
theme of PC sticking it out.”
(Letter to home) Accra, Ghana. July 25, 1967.
“Initially after the evacuation of wives and children
from June 4 to 7, every expatriate, especially Peace Corps, endeavored to last
out the Civil War in Biafra. This
attempt was short-lived. The blockade
beginning on May 30 had cut off all raw materials and spare parts, and other
goods necessary for business and trade.
(Physical threats were still a remote consideration in regards to a
possible evacuation.) Soon, road blocks
manned by Biafran men and women sprang up like desert flowers after a
rain. Besides representing a sizeable
obstacle to travel, they were sometimes very, very frightening, leaving an
emotional residue of anxiety which resulted usually in a bad case of the
jitters after 5 or 6 more.
Rumors became more and more outrageous, something
which usually doesn’t detract from their effectiveness. With a country-wide fear of bombing raids
and sabotage, things just became too sticky to remain. So, we left. Wednesday, July 12, we moved to Aba, to return to Port on
Sunday. As PCV’s moved into the
Presidential Hotel, other expats from all over Biafra began to arrive. Finally, 600 evacuees boarded the Italian
m.v. Isonzo, and headed for Lagos on Thursday, July 20. It was a real “Exodus” (a recent popular
movie) type of evacuation, with people spread over every possible inch of
the freighter. (Time-Life is doing a
story on Biafra/Nigeria, so I am cutting off my descriptions.)
After Lagos, we have moved to Accra, from there onto
Malawi, via Nairobi. I hated pulling
out on my Biafran friends—someday I hope to return.
I will write as soon as I reach Nairobi.”
End